Friday 17th March
Thursday 16th March had involved an early morning
Malaysian Airlines flight to Kuala Lumpur taking about 12 hours followed by a 3
hour trip to Sandakan in Borneo, where we arrived mid-afternoon on 17th.
We were met by a local guide who took us to our hotel for the next two nights, the
Sepilok Nature Resort and we duly settled in to our comfortable cabins.
The centre of the resort is of course the bar and restaurant
which overlooks a small pond. The first real birding started over a beer as we
looked out over the water. Glossy Swiftlets, Barn and Pacific Swallows were
immediately obvious as they swooped in either to catch insects or to drink but
amongst them were unfamiliar swift-like birds with white markings on the back –
a quick flick through the book identified them as Silver-rumped Spinetails. Other
birds showing around the pond in the time it took to drink that beer included a
pair of Malaysian Pied Fantails, Stork-billed Kingfisher, Oriental Magpie-Robin,
Little Spiderhunter and, rather incongruously I felt, a Common Sandpiper. The
walk back to the cabin for a rather overdue siesta revealed Ashy Tailorbird,
Brown-throated Sunbird and several Tree Sparrows.
Brown-throated Sunbird
Saturday 18th March
Up early the following morning I spent an hour or so before
breakfast exploring the lodge grounds – or that was the plan, in fact there was
so much going on around our cabin I barely got off the balcony. Several
Brown-throated and Crimson Sunbirds were flitting amongst the Helliconia
flowers, occasionally posing nicely for photos, a bit further away two
Blue-throated Bee-Eaters were fly-catching and above me a Common Iora was
calling. An Orange-bellied Flowerpecker stayed maddeningly obscured from the
camera as did a calling Blue-eared Barbet.
Crimson Sunbird
After breakfast we met up with Hazwan, our guide for the
rest of our time in Sabah, and made the short walk to the Sepilok Orang-utan
centre. Along the way we saw what were to become some of the commoner birds of
the trip: Black and Oriental Pied Hornbills, Green Imperial Pigeon and Dollarbird.
The boardwalk to the Orang-utan viewing areas yielded Purple-naped Sunbird and
Black-winged Flycatcher-Shrike.
Oriental Pied Hornbill
The centre provides excellent views of Orang-utans but the
overall feel of the place given the feeding platform, the viewing area and the
crowds is of a zoo; I hoped for even poor views of truly wild Orang Utans later
in the trip. A few birds took advantage of the fruit put out for the Orangs
with Buff-vented and Red-eyed Bulbuls and Orange-bellied Flowerpecker all
attracted to the fruit. Chestnut-bellied Malkoha and Lesser Leafbird were
present in the surrounding trees and an Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher flew rapidly
through. A return trip to the centre at dusk provided great views of Red Giant
Flying Squirrel in action but sadly unphotographable in the gloom. The birdlife
support included two more Hornbill species (Rhinoceros and Bushy-crested),
Long-tailed Parakeets and our first Bat Falcon. Our walk back to our lodge was
enlivened by both Slow Loris and Common Palm Civet being found by spotlighting.
Sunday 19th March
Our last day in Sepilok started with a second brief trip to
the Orang Utan centre which added just Grey-cheeked Bulbul to the birdlist. It
was then a brief road journey back into Sandakan where we stopped for lunch at
a hotel – watching a large Water Monitor enjoying itself in the hotel pool put
me off the idea of swimming for the rest of the trip!
Water Monitor
Our next stop was Sukau Rainforest Lodge – a 2-hour trip by
motor-boat up the Kinabatangan River, Borneo’s largest. Nature watching wasn’t
easy from the boat but we did get to see 2 White-bellied Sea Eagles and our
only Lesser Adjutants of the trip. We arrived at the lodge mid-afternoon and
had time to check into our rooms and have a brief introduction by lodge staff
before it was back out on the river in a much smaller and quieter boat. Almost
immediately we came across a large group of Proboscis Monkeys sitting in
riverside trees, seemingly unconcerned by our presence.
Proboscis Monkey
We
watched the group for some time before moving quietly on, almost immediately
Hazwan became very excited and pointed at one of the nearby trees – incredibly
difficult to pick out at first but unmistakeable once found – 2 Orangutans, a
mother and her youngster.
Orangutan
Monday 20th March
A very busy day saw us up at dawn and forcing down coffee
and toast before boarding our small boat for another trip out on the
Kinabatangan River. This time we crossed to the far side and went down one of
the small tributaries where Hazwan changed to a quiet electric motor so that we
caused less disturbance. Kingfishers were everywhere with Stork-billed,
Blue-cheeked, Ruddy and Common all putting in close and photogenic appearances.
Black-and-Red Broadbills flaunted their brilliant sky-blue and yellow bills
above us whilst Malaysian Blue Flycatchers were less showy preferring to stay
in vegetation closer to the river’s banks. Lots of species were added to the
trip list, most notably another 3 Hornbills (Wreathed, Wrinkled and
White-crowned) and our first endemic, the recently split Bornean Brown Barbet.
Black-and-red Broadbill
After
a much needed breakfast the rest of the morning was spent on the boardwalk at
the Sukau lodge. Unfortunately a lot of building work was taking place with the
lodge itself expanding and much of the boardwalk being replaced. This meant
much disturbance so in general the area around the lodge was disappointing.
Chestnut-winged and Black-capped Babblers were added to the bird list and we
saw our first flying lizard but otherwise it was very quiet.
Chestnut-winged Babbler
In the mid-afternoon we had another boat trip, this time
going along the main river. Lesser Fish Eagle and Wallace’s Hawk Eagle put in
appearances as did a young male Orang-utan in a fruiting fig tree. Our first
Pig-tailed Macaque was seen, bizarrely being groomed by a Long-tailed Macaque –
perhaps what Hazwan called an ‘Intermediate Macaque’ will be the outcome!
Another primate was also added to the list in the form of Silvered Langur or
Silvered Leaf Monkey. Initially the small family group were high up in the
trees and obscured by leaves and branches but with Hazwan cleverly manoeuvring
the boat we finally had reasonably decent views.
Silvered Langur
We arrived back at the lodge just in time to go out for our
third boat-trip of the day – returning to the quiet tributary that we’d visited
in the morning, but this time in the dark. Hazwan played the powerful beam
along the trees and vegetation and almost immediately picked up some eye-shine
which turned out to be Common Palm Civet. It wasn’t quite dark as we got to the
entrance of the tributary and we had brief views of a Large Flying Fox leaving
its daytime roost as we floated past. Several Black-crowned Night Herons were
disturbed and flew off as we approached them but our first White-breasted
Waterhen seemed mesmerised by the light and allowed us to come very close. Four
Buffy Fish Owls were found, most flying off as we approached but one stayed
long enough for photos. We did finally connect with Saltwater Crocodile but
only three rather small juveniles.
White-breasted Waterhen
Tuesday 21st March
Up before dawn again for another trip along the Kinabatang,
this time sticking to the main river and heading upstream. The high point was
yet another Orang-utan, this time a mature male complete with large cheek-pads
– at first he appeared to be shy, covering his face with his hands but we soon
realised he was shading his eyes from the low early morning sun.
Orangutan
We had further good views of Silvered Langurs and amongst a
handful of new birds were two fabulous raptors – Jerdon’s Baza and Grey-headed
Fish Eagle. As we returned Hazwan steered the boat towards the bank about 200
yards from the lodge. The river bank had been churned up by something large and
in the last couple of hours as the marks weren’t there when we left – this was
to be the closest we got to the Bornean Pygmy Elephant.
Grey-headed Fish Eagle
We had breakfast as soon as we got back and afterwards as I
walked back to the room I was asked if I’d seen the Colugo yet. Not having a
clue what a Colugo was I said no and asked for directions. Half way up a tree
in the middle of the lodge garden was the Colugo, also known as Flying Lemur,
clinging to the trunk. As it is chiefly nocturnal the animal had presumably
arrived the night before at what it thought would be a quiet roosting spot to
spend the day but ended up being the centre of attention. It stayed all day but
was gone the following morning.
Malaysian Colugo
The main focus of attention for today was to be a trip to
the famous Gomantong caves to see the spectacle of millions of bats leaving the
caves at dusk. A short boat ride to Sukau village followed by a 45 minute road
journey and we arrived at the cave complex by about 4.30. On the way I’d
managed to see several Collared Kingfishers and White-breasted Woodswallows on
roadside wires but sadly we didn’t have time to stop. On the approach road to
the caves we had distant and rather disappointing views of a new primate, the
beautiful Maroon Langur or Red Leaf Monkey, and no photographs were possible.
Even Hazwan was surprised when we arrived at the car park to find two Maroon
Langurs in a bush and approachable to within a few feet.
Maroon Langur
A boardwalk leads from the car park to the caves entrance
and takes about 20 minutes. Here we donned plastic hard-hats, whether to
protect us from falling rocks or dung from the millions of bats and thousands
of Swiftlets was never made clear. The Swiftlets were the first thing I noticed
as we entered the caves. Looking indistinguishable from the ubiquitous Glossy
Swiftlet there are three echo-locating Swiftlet species that make their nests
in the Gomantong caves all of which make a very audible rapid ‘ticking’ noise
as they fly in the gloom of the caves. Only distinguishable from each other by
the colour of the nests we were lucky enough to see both Mossy-nest and
Black-nest Swiftlets perched on their tiny, cup-like nests – unfortunately
timing wasn’t right for us to see and identify Edible-nest Swiftlet as they
were yet to start nest-building.
Black-nest Swiftlet
After
a circuit of the main cave we exited again and moved to a good position outside
to view the main event. Above us several raptors had had the same idea:
Wallace’s and Rufous-bellied Hawk Eagles, Bat and Peregrine Falcons and a
somewhat optimistic Brahminy Kite could be seen flying over the caves. There
are several exits used by the bats and initially they started to come out of the
front where we had entered the cave a little earlier. This provoked little
reaction from the assembled birds of prey but once the bats started emerging
from the exits at the top of the caves it was a different story. A stream of
several hundred bats emerged and flew off quickly in a loose ball formation
chased by one of the Hawk Eagles whose tactic was to fly into the mass of bats
and casually grab one from the group. The falcons, on the other hand, would
make a sudden dash appearing to pick out a particular victim and pouncing on
it. We watched for about an hour and the bats were still pouring out of the
caves as we left.
Wrinkle-lipped Bats
Wednesday 22nd March
Our final morning in Sukau and our final early morning
boat-trip. Once more we cruised slowly and quietly up the small tributary
seeing many, now familiar species. Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher posed beautifully
for the photographers whilst the wonderfully named Square-tailed Drongo Cuckoo
stayed just out of camera range. A beautifully coloured Hooded Pitta was flushed
and showed only briefly as did a Chestnut-winged Cuckoo.
Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher
As
Hazwan pointed the boat towards home he suddenly swung it back towards the
bank. There, hauled out on the mud was a large (perhaps 2 metres long)
Saltwater Crocodile. We had time for some quick photos before it slid back into
the water and out of sight.
Saltwater Crocodile
After breakfast, during which we watched 4 Storm’s Storks
circling above us, our bags were packed onto the boat and we repeated the previous
day’s brief ride to Sukau village. We drove first to Lahad Datu where we
stopped for lunch before splitting into two groups to take two 4WD vehicles for
the 2 hour journey to Tabin. We arrived mid-afternoon just in time for a
downpour – our first experience of real Bornean rain! I sat on the balcony of
our room watching the river rush past outside. Malaysian Blue and Asian Brown
Flycatchers flitted amongst the surrounding trees and a Little Spiderhunter
searched amongst the flowers. A movement in the river caught my eye, a large
Water Monitor making its way upstream suddenly seemed to sense my presence and
swam to the far bank and disappeared. As I continued to watch the rain a
Stork-billed Kingfisher flew along the river, followed shortly afterwards by a
Blue-banded Kingfisher. Another movement from the river I at first assumed to
be the Water Monitor again but as it climbed over some rocks I realised it was
in fact a large otter – later confirmed as Smooth-coated and the only otter
sighting of the trip. The Blue-banded Kingfisher appeared again further
upstream.
Blue-banded Kingfisher
As
the rain finished we climbed aboard an open backed truck for the first of a
number of rather uncomfortable drives through the Tabin reserve. The trucks had
been modified to take four steel benches fitted parallel to each other so that
we could all sit facing forwards, two or three abreast. The benches were only
lightly padded and after a couple of hours bouncing around on the rough tracks
I was longing for the comparative luxury of the Sukau boats. We left the lodge
at about 5 in the afternoon and drove slowly back along the track to the
reserve entrance, stopping frequently if anything of interest was seen. The
endemic Black Magpie was quickly spotted by Evi and declared ‘bird of the day’
by Hazwan. A group of three birds flew briefly into a tree in front of us
before flying on further into the forest. Also endemic, but far easier to see
were Dusky Munias which flew off from roadside vegetation as we approached and were
surprisingly difficult to photograph. Common Hill Mynah and White-crowned
Shama, another endemic, were also added to our growing list before we reached
the entrance.
White-crowned Shama
Here we waited for a while for it to start getting dark as
we would be spot-lighting on our way back. A large dead tree near the entrance
hosted a Giant Red Flying Squirrel which emerged from a hole in the trunk and
took its first short flight of the evening. Bottoms partially recovered we
climbed back into the truck, gingerly took our positions and started back the
way we had come with Hazwan manning a powerful spot-light. Common and
Small-toothed Palm Civet were both seen briefly amongst the tree branches
whilst a second Giant Red Flying Squirrel was found in a tree back at the lodge.
The main prize of the evening however was a beautiful Leopard Cat that insisted
on running along the track away from our vehicle for several minutes before it
eventually dived into the roadside vegetation and disappeared.
Thursday 23rd March
Another early start on this occasion searching for the
Bornean Gibbon, a family of which was known to be nearby. I suspect Hazwan knew
exactly where they were as he led us directly there – just a few hundred yards
from the lodge. A family of four were gathered in the tops of some very tall
trees which made viewing and photography very difficult at first. However the
group moved around and eventually, whilst still very high up, we were able to
good some good views. It was only after we left that the calling started as the
group responded to another party of gibbons some distance away.
East Bornean Grey Gibbon
We continued our walk along the main entrance track but this
time going further into the reserve. Black Eagle, White-bellied Sea Eagle and
Changeable Hawk Eagle were all seen flying high over the jungle and a Bat Hawk
passed over. Two beautiful Black-and-Yellow Broadbills posed for photos just a
few feet from us.
Black-and-yellow Broadbill
We
crossed the river and turned onto a very muddy footpath being warned that this
was where we were likely to encounter our first leeches and, sure enough, one
was soon spotted climbing up my leech socks. Smaller than expected it was
easily flicked back into the undergrowth although others in the group were not
so fortunate with leeches found under shirts, inside bras and feeding happily
under a watch strap and a wedding ring!
We continued along the path, at one stage being passed very
closely by a large troop of Pig-tailed Macaques, before coming out just
upstream of the lodge and crossing back over the river via a rather rickety
pedestrian bridge.
After breakfast it was back into the open truck for a trip
to a different part of the reserve. A variety of new birds appeared, the
highlights being the remarkable Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Van Hasselt’s
Sunbird and Raffle’s Malkoha. At one stage a Bearded Pig walked across the
track some distance in front of us. As we returned to the lodge two treeswifts
appeared flying above the canopy; I’d declared earlier that one of my
longed-for species was Whiskered Treeswift so, despite the rain beginning, we
stopped for a look. Viewing conditions were pretty poor and none of us could
make out any features, it was only on checking photos later that I could
confirm that these were Grey-rumped Treeswifts, not Whiskered. The rain now set
in and we returned to the lodge.
Van Hasselt's Sunbird
Our afternoon trip was again back along the main track to
the entrance, spotlighting on our return. Crested Fireback and Blue-crowned
Hanging Parrot were added to the list during the outward, daylight leg whilst
spotlighting produced several new squirrels: Black and Thomas’s Flying
Squirrels and a Giant Squirrel. A leopard cat was again seen briefly and very
good views of 2 Buffy Fish Owls were had.
Buffy Fish Owl
Friday 24th March
The final full day of our trip saw us visiting
one of the mud volcanoes that Tabin is well known for. Almost before setting
out we had the surprising sight of a Storm’s Stork strolling around the grounds
of the lodge, easily our best views of this iconic bird. The trip to the mud
volcano involved a half-hour journey on the truck followed by a muddy walk
through the forest until we got to the clearing in the middle of which was the
volcano. Used by many mammals, most famously the pygmy elephants, as a source
of minerals today it was unfortunately empty – only a few footprints of Bearded
Pigs to show that anything had been there.
To
one side a 30 metre-tall observation tower has been built and most of us
climbed to the top to view the area. In the surrounding trees we found Dusky
Broadbill, Tiger Shrike, Spectacled and Hairy-backed Bubuls and, rather incongruously
I thought, an Arctic Warbler. With seven of the eight Hornbill species already
on our list Hazwan was determined that we see the missing Helmeted Hornbill. He
got quite agitated when he heard the birds calling in the distance and after
several minutes of calling back two birds flew low over us and landed in some
nearby trees giving us some great views.
Helmeted Hornbill
We
spent about an hour at the volcano but our much hoped for Pygmy Elephants
refused to put in an appearance. As small consolation we did get some excellent
views of a Lesser Mousedeer as we returned to our truck.
Lesser Mouse Deer
As a further reward the troop of Gibbons had moved closer to
the lodge and for much of the afternoon could be seen (and heard!) in the trees
directly across the river from our rooms.
Our final spotlighting trip that evening yielded Common Palm
Civet, Buffy Fish Owl and the now expected Leopard Cat. On this occasion
however the cat stayed motionless as we pulled up next to it, apparently
concentrating on something in the grass in front of it. Lots of photographs
were taken before the cat suddenly pounced and quickly made off with its prey.
Leopard Cat
Saturday 25th – Wednesday 29th March
All too quickly our time in Tabin and, for many of us, our
time in Borneo was at an end. We had time for a walk through the lodge grounds
(adding White-bellied Munia and Bold-striped Tit-babbler to our lists) before
climbing on the bus for the trip to Lahad Datu. From there it was a flight to
Kota Kinabalu where Evi and I said goodbye to the rest of the group and took a
taxi to the Jesselton Jetty and a speedboat to the Gaya Island resort where we
were to spend the next 4 nights.
Unfortunately
I was ill for much of our stay on the island and whilst Evi wandered around
doing the interesting stuff like snorkelling I spent most of the time in bed or
sitting on the veranda. From here I added Black-naped Monarch, Cream-vented
Bulbul and Reef Egret to the trip list but wasn’t really able to enjoy what was
a beautiful island. I had recovered a bit by our final day and joined the
escorted nature walk organised by the hotel. For me this was rather
disappointing as it was largely concerned with the native plants and their
medicinal uses – quite interesting but not really what I had been hoping for.
Rather better was an afternoon trip to a nearby beach where a small beach bar
was located. This seemed to be under constant siege from the local Long-tailed
Macaques, Water Monitors and Bearded Pigs. Indeed, as we took the final boat
back together with the bar staff we could see the whole place being overtaken
by the macaques.
On
our final morning we boarded an early boat to take us back to Kota Kinabalu.
Passing a large buoy about half way across we flushed several Greater Crested
and Whiskered Terns – my only seabirds of the entire trip.
Thursday 30th March – Saturday 1st
April
Our last few days were spent in Kuala Lumpur and whilst
sight-seeing was the aim a few interesting birds did show up. The most obvious
were the House Crows which seemed to be everywhere; nearly as prolific were the
House Swifts of which we got some fantastic views from the top of the Petronas
Towers. Cattle Egrets were particularly noticeable in the evenings when scores
would fly past the hotel, presumably heading to roost in the nearby botanical
gardens. An Asian Koel called incessantly from the top of a tree outside our
hotel whilst both Black-naped Orioles and Blue-tailed Bee-eaters were also
seen.
Asian Koel
Our final morning was spent wandering around the park as we
waited to got to the airport – having lunch near the KL bird park gave us our
closest bird experience of the trip!
Cattle Egret
Mammal List
Large Flying-fox - one seen leaving roost in Sukau
Wrinkle-lipped Bat - thousands at Gamontong Caves
Malaysian Colugo - one in Sukau lodge grounds
Slow Loris - one spot-lighted in Sepilok
Maroon Langur - several seen around Gamontong Caves
Silvered Langur - two small groups seen in Sukau
Proboscis Monkey - common in riverside trees in Sukau
Long-tailed Macaque - common in Sepilok and Sukau
Pig-tailed Macaque - common in Tabin, small numbers in Sukau
Pig-tailed Macaque
East Bornean Grey Gibbon - one family of 5 at Tabin
Bornean Orangutan - sightings of four individuals in riverside trees in Sukau
Giant Squirrel - one spot-lighted in Tabin
Plantain Squirrel - common
Plantain Squirrel
Prevost's Squirrel - common
Plain Pygmy Squirrel - one in Sukau
Plain Pygmy Squirrel
Black Flying Squirrel - one spotlighted in Sukau
Red Giant Flying Squirrel - one in Sepilok, several spot-lighted in Tabin
Thomas's Flying Squirrel - one spot-lighted in Tabin
Smooth Otter - one in river in Tabin
Small-toothed Palm Civet - one spot-lighted in Tabin
Common Palm Civet - several spot-lighted in Sepilok, Sukau and Tabin
Leopard Cat - three spotlighted in Tabin
Bearded Pig - one in Tabin, several on Gaya Island
Bearded Pig
Lesser Mouse Deer - one near mud volcano, Tabin
Reptile List
Saltwater Crocodile - one adult and three juveniles in Sukau
Flying Lizard - two in grounds of Sukau lodge
Flying Lizard
Bornean Angle-headed Dragon - one in Sepilok
Barking Gecko - common
Asian House Gecko - common
Striped Bornean Tree Skink - one in Sepilok and Sukau
Striped Bornean Tree Skink
Water Monitor - common
Elegant Bronzeback - one in Sepilok
Keeled Green Pit Viper - one in Sepilok
Bird List
Crested Fireback - small group in Tabin
Storm's Stork - several in Sukau; one in grounds of Tabin lodge
Storm's Stork
Lesser Adjutant - two in flight along Kinabatang river
Striated Heron - one on jetty at Sandakan
Black-crowned Night Heron - three flushed whilst spot-lighting in Sukau
Eastern Cattle Egret - common
Purple Heron - several seen in Sukau
Great Egret - common
Little Egret - common
Reef Egret - several around Gaya Island, just one white morph, rest all dark
Oriental Darter - common in Sukau
Peregrine Falcon - one hunting bats at Gamontong Caves
Jerdon's Baza - one in Sukau
Bat Hawk - singles at all sites excluding Gaya and KL
Brahminy Kite - small numbers in Sepilok and one at Gamontong Caves
White-bellied Sea Eagle - singles in Sukau, Tabin and Gaya
White-bellied Sea Eagle
Grey-headed Fish Eagle - one in Sukau
Lesser Fish Eagle - one in Sukau
Crested Serpent Eagle - several in Sukau and Tabin
Crested Serpent Eagle
Black Eagle - one over Tabin
Changeable Hawk-Eagle - one over Tabin
Wallace's Hawk-Eagle - common in Tabin and Gamontong Caves
Wallace's Hawk Eagle with Wrinkle-lipped Bats
Rufous-bellied Hawk-Eagle - single at Gamontong Caves
White-breasted Waterhen - two sightings in Sukau
Common Sandpiper - one at Sepilok, small numbers in Sukau
Greater Crested Tern - three or four off Gaya Island
Whiskered Tern - several with above at Gaya Island
Feral Pigeon - common in towns
Spotted Dove - several in Lahad Datu
Emerald Dove - singles in Sepilok and Gaya Island
Zebra Dove - common in Sepilok and on Gaya Island
Little Green Pigeon - small numbers in Sukau and Gaya Island
Pink-necked Green Pigeon - one large flock in Sukau
Pink-necked Green Pigeon
Green Imperial Pigeon - common
Green Imperial Pigeon
Blue-crowned Hanging Parrot - two in Tabin
Long-tailed Parakeet - common in Sepilok and Sukau
Indian Cuckoo - one in Sukau
Violet Cuckoo - one in Sukau
Chestnut-winged Cuckoo - one in Sukau
Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo - one in Sukau
Asian Koel - adult and two juveniles in KL
Raffles's Malkoha - two in Tabin
Raffle's Malkoha
Chestnut-breasted Malkoha - common
Greater Coucal - small numbers in Sukau
Lesser Coucal - one in Sukau
Buffy Fish Owl - several seen whilst spot-lighting in Sukau and Tabin
Glossy Swiftlet - common
Mossy-nest Swiftlet - hundreds in Gamontong Caves
Black-nest Swiftlet - hundreds in Gamontong Caves
Silver-rumped Spinetail - common in Sepilok
House Swift - common in KL
Grey-rumped Treeswift - two small groups in Tabin
Scarlet-rumped Trogon - one in Sepilok
Oriental Dollarbird - common in Sepilok and Sukau
Stork-billed Kingfisher - common
Stork-billed Kingfisher
Collared Kingfisher - common along road to Gamontong Caves
Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher - occasional birds in Sepilok and Tabin
Ruddy Kingfisher - one at Sukau
Ruddy Kingfisher
Blue-banded Kingfisher - one at Tabin
Blue-eared Kingfisher - several in Sukau
Blue-eared Kingfisher
Common Kingfisher - one in Sukau
Blue-throated Bee-eater - small numbers in Sepilok and Sukau
Blue-throated Bee-eater
Blue-tailed Bee-eater - several in KL
Bushy-crested Hornbill - small numbers in Sepilok and Sukau
Oriental Pied Hornbill - common
Black Hornbill - common
Rhinoceros Hornbill - common
Rhinoceros Hornbill
Helmeted Hornbill - pair in Tabin
White-crowned Hornbill - small numbers in Sukau
Wrinkled Hornbill - small numbers in Sukau
Wreathed Hornbill - small numbers in Sukau
Wreathed Hornbill
Blue-eared Barbet - one in Sepilok
Bornean Brown Barbet* - small group in Sukau
Buff-rumped Woodpecker - common
Buff-necked Woodpecker - one in Sukau
Grey-and-buff Woodpecker - one in Sukau
Dusky Broadbill - one in Tabin
Dusky Broadbill
Black-and-red Broadbill - common in Sukau
Black-and-yellow Broadbill - several in Tabin
Hooded Pitta - one in Sukau
Lesser Cuckooshrike - one in Tabin
Fiery Minivet - one in Tabin
Dark-throated Oriole - one in Tabin
Black-naped Oriole - male near hotel in KL
Black-winged Flycatcher-shrike - one in Sepilok and Tabin
Black-winged Flycatcher-shrike
White-breasted Woodswallow
Common Iora
Common Iora
Malaysian Pied Fantail
Black-naped Monarch
Black-naped Monarch
Asian Paradise Flycatcher
Slender-billed Crow
House Crow
Bornean Black Magpie*
Tiger Shrike
Brown-throated Sunbird
Red-throated Sunbird
Ruby-cheeked Sunbird
Ruby-cheeked Sunbird (female)
Van Hasselt's Sunbird
Crimson Sunbird
Purple-naped Sunbird
Little Spiderhunter
Little Spiderhunter
Spectacled Spiderhunter
Yellow-rumped Flowerpecker*
Orange-bellied Flowerpecker
Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker
Lesser Green Leafbird
Dusky Munia*
White-bellied Munia
Chestnut Munia
Chestnut Munia
Eurasian Tree Sparrow
Common Myna
Javan Myna
Common Hill Myna
Asian Glossy Starling
Oriental Magpie-Robin
Oriental Magpie-robin
White-crowned Shama*
Malaysian Blue Flycatcher
Malaysian Blue Flycatcher
Mangrove Blue Flycatcher
Blue-and-white Flycatcher
Asian Brown Flycatcher
Black-headed Bulbul
Yellow-vented Bulbul
Olive-winged Bulbul
Cream-vented Bulbul
Asian Red-eyed Bulbul
Spectacled Bulbul
Buff-vented Bulbul
Hairy-backed Bulbul
Grey-cheeked Bulbul
Barn Swallow
Pacific Swallow
Arctic Warbler
Chestnut-winged Babbler
Bold-striped Tit-babbler
Black-capped Babbler
White-chested Babbler
White-chested Babbler
Ferruginous Babbler
Ashy Tailorbird
Ashy Tailorbird
Rufous-tailed Tailorbird
Yellow-bellied Prinia
Mammal List
Large Flying-fox - one seen leaving roost in Sukau
Wrinkle-lipped Bat - thousands at Gamontong Caves
Malaysian Colugo - one in Sukau lodge grounds
Slow Loris - one spot-lighted in Sepilok
Maroon Langur - several seen around Gamontong Caves
Silvered Langur - two small groups seen in Sukau
Proboscis Monkey - common in riverside trees in Sukau
Long-tailed Macaque - common in Sepilok and Sukau
Pig-tailed Macaque - common in Tabin, small numbers in Sukau
East Bornean Grey Gibbon - one family of 5 at Tabin
Bornean Orangutan - sightings of four individuals in riverside trees in Sukau
Giant Squirrel - one spot-lighted in Tabin
Plantain Squirrel - common
Prevost's Squirrel - common
Plain Pygmy Squirrel - one in Sukau
Black Flying Squirrel - one spotlighted in Sukau
Red Giant Flying Squirrel - one in Sepilok, several spot-lighted in Tabin
Thomas's Flying Squirrel - one spot-lighted in Tabin
Smooth Otter - one in river in Tabin
Small-toothed Palm Civet - one spot-lighted in Tabin
Common Palm Civet - several spot-lighted in Sepilok, Sukau and Tabin
Leopard Cat - three spotlighted in Tabin
Bearded Pig - one in Tabin, several on Gaya Island
Lesser Mouse Deer - one near mud volcano, Tabin
Reptile List
Saltwater Crocodile - one adult and three juveniles in Sukau
Flying Lizard - two in grounds of Sukau lodge
Bornean Angle-headed Dragon - one in Sepilok
Barking Gecko - common
Asian House Gecko - common
Striped Bornean Tree Skink - one in Sepilok and Sukau
Water Monitor - common
Elegant Bronzeback - one in Sepilok
Keeled Green Pit Viper - one in Sepilok
Bird List
Crested Fireback - small group in Tabin
Storm's Stork - several in Sukau; one in grounds of Tabin lodge
Lesser Adjutant - two in flight along Kinabatang river
Striated Heron - one on jetty at Sandakan
Black-crowned Night Heron - three flushed whilst spot-lighting in Sukau
Eastern Cattle Egret - common
Purple Heron - several seen in Sukau
Great Egret - common
Little Egret - common
Reef Egret - several around Gaya Island, just one white morph, rest all dark
Oriental Darter - common in Sukau
Peregrine Falcon - one hunting bats at Gamontong Caves
Jerdon's Baza - one in Sukau
Bat Hawk - singles at all sites excluding Gaya and KL
Brahminy Kite - small numbers in Sepilok and one at Gamontong Caves
White-bellied Sea Eagle - singles in Sukau, Tabin and Gaya
Grey-headed Fish Eagle - one in Sukau
Lesser Fish Eagle - one in Sukau
Crested Serpent Eagle - several in Sukau and Tabin
Black Eagle - one over Tabin
Changeable Hawk-Eagle - one over Tabin
Wallace's Hawk-Eagle - common in Tabin and Gamontong Caves
Rufous-bellied Hawk-Eagle - single at Gamontong Caves
White-breasted Waterhen - two sightings in Sukau
Common Sandpiper - one at Sepilok, small numbers in Sukau
Greater Crested Tern - three or four off Gaya Island
Whiskered Tern - several with above at Gaya Island
Feral Pigeon - common in towns
Spotted Dove - several in Lahad Datu
Emerald Dove - singles in Sepilok and Gaya Island
Zebra Dove - common in Sepilok and on Gaya Island
Little Green Pigeon - small numbers in Sukau and Gaya Island
Pink-necked Green Pigeon - one large flock in Sukau
Green Imperial Pigeon - common
Blue-crowned Hanging Parrot - two in Tabin
Long-tailed Parakeet - common in Sepilok and Sukau
Indian Cuckoo - one in Sukau
Violet Cuckoo - one in Sukau
Chestnut-winged Cuckoo - one in Sukau
Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo - one in Sukau
Asian Koel - adult and two juveniles in KL
Raffles's Malkoha - two in Tabin
Chestnut-breasted Malkoha - common
Greater Coucal - small numbers in Sukau
Lesser Coucal - one in Sukau
Buffy Fish Owl - several seen whilst spot-lighting in Sukau and Tabin
Glossy Swiftlet - common
Mossy-nest Swiftlet - hundreds in Gamontong Caves
Black-nest Swiftlet - hundreds in Gamontong Caves
Silver-rumped Spinetail - common in Sepilok
House Swift - common in KL
Grey-rumped Treeswift - two small groups in Tabin
Scarlet-rumped Trogon - one in Sepilok
Oriental Dollarbird - common in Sepilok and Sukau
Stork-billed Kingfisher - common
Collared Kingfisher - common along road to Gamontong Caves
Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher - occasional birds in Sepilok and Tabin
Ruddy Kingfisher - one at Sukau
Blue-banded Kingfisher - one at Tabin
Blue-eared Kingfisher - several in Sukau
Common Kingfisher - one in Sukau
Blue-throated Bee-eater - small numbers in Sepilok and Sukau
Blue-tailed Bee-eater - several in KL
Bushy-crested Hornbill - small numbers in Sepilok and Sukau
Oriental Pied Hornbill - common
Black Hornbill - common
Rhinoceros Hornbill - common
Helmeted Hornbill - pair in Tabin
White-crowned Hornbill - small numbers in Sukau
Wrinkled Hornbill - small numbers in Sukau
Wreathed Hornbill - small numbers in Sukau
Blue-eared Barbet - one in Sepilok
Bornean Brown Barbet* - small group in Sukau
Buff-rumped Woodpecker - common
Buff-necked Woodpecker - one in Sukau
Grey-and-buff Woodpecker - one in Sukau
Dusky Broadbill - one in Tabin
Black-and-red Broadbill - common in Sukau
Black-and-yellow Broadbill - several in Tabin
Hooded Pitta - one in Sukau
Lesser Cuckooshrike - one in Tabin
Fiery Minivet - one in Tabin
Dark-throated Oriole - one in Tabin
Black-naped Oriole - male near hotel in KL
Black-winged Flycatcher-shrike - one in Sepilok and Tabin
White-breasted Woodswallow
Common Iora
Malaysian Pied Fantail
Black-naped Monarch
Asian Paradise Flycatcher
Slender-billed Crow
House Crow
Bornean Black Magpie*
Tiger Shrike
Brown-throated Sunbird
Red-throated Sunbird
Ruby-cheeked Sunbird
Van Hasselt's Sunbird
Crimson Sunbird
Purple-naped Sunbird
Little Spiderhunter
Spectacled Spiderhunter
Yellow-rumped Flowerpecker*
Orange-bellied Flowerpecker
Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker
Lesser Green Leafbird
Dusky Munia*
White-bellied Munia
Chestnut Munia
Eurasian Tree Sparrow
Common Myna
Javan Myna
Common Hill Myna
Asian Glossy Starling
Oriental Magpie-Robin
White-crowned Shama*
Malaysian Blue Flycatcher
Mangrove Blue Flycatcher
Blue-and-white Flycatcher
Asian Brown Flycatcher
Black-headed Bulbul
Yellow-vented Bulbul
Olive-winged Bulbul
Cream-vented Bulbul
Asian Red-eyed Bulbul
Spectacled Bulbul
Buff-vented Bulbul
Hairy-backed Bulbul
Grey-cheeked Bulbul
Barn Swallow
Pacific Swallow
Arctic Warbler
Chestnut-winged Babbler
Bold-striped Tit-babbler
Black-capped Babbler
White-chested Babbler
Ferruginous Babbler
Ashy Tailorbird
Rufous-tailed Tailorbird
Yellow-bellied Prinia
